COLLIN THOMPSON OF CIPHER
Hiphongkong chats to Collin Thompson- filmaker turned sneaker designer and the founder of groovy shoe brand Cipher.
What led you to Hong Kong and how does this city inspire you?
Well it really started after I finished film school, I really loved Wong Kar Wai films, and always wanted to come out to Hong Kong, so I did and eventually stayed. To me this city is the perfect place right now for someone like myself and for the brand. The films of my university days really gave me a romantic vision of the city and it’s really grown on me ever since. As well, with what’s going on geo-politically it’s exciting to see such dramatic social change right on the doorstep. I’m close to the production, so I can always tinker around and come up with new stuff. The city is an international explosion of cultures colliding, dizzying futuristic buildings, the neon, and a dynamic lifestyle— the city and its place in the world is one of the main inspirations for Cipher.
What is the story behind the Seditionary, Subterranean and Libertine styles?
I always try to connect the context of my life with what might have been going on in a previous generation. I was totally consumed with British punk, particularly the Sex Pistols and how fashion was transformed in the UK by Malcolm Mclaren and Vivienne Westwood, which essentially influenced a generation and the world. They had this store called ‘Sex’ which before that was called ‘Seditionary’. I think of the sneaker phenomenon as a cultural movement so I conceived the shoe based on the Chuck, the iconic shoes of the punk generation, but twisted it with the fetish shoe, and the Cipher Seditionary was born!
The Subterranean is a design that came about first from the product, and then actually came alive as I was making my way through the city. The complex looking lacing system ironically makes the shoe very easy to wear. I spend a lot of time traveling on the MTR or subway in Hong Kong, so I tend to read a lot. I was reading the Subterraneans and it just seemed to click with the design, and where I was at the time. I usually always field test my shoes before working a story and a name around them. It grew into a homage to Jack Kerouac who led a tragic but fascinating life and was also a great influential American to a generation of people who felt ‘beat’. I know we can all feel like that at times and Kerouac mixed poetry and narratives and to me he was like the first rapper, mixing jazz, and words to create these amazingly harrowing stories that were very personal, but spoke to his generation.
The Libertine began from a mixture of the silhouette, the materials and the attitude I perceived of the person that would wear these types of shoes that led to the name. The Libertine era of Victorian England came to mind, which then connected to the author Oscar Wilde. He was also a very respected speaker on the idea of Aesthetics, which made that particular family more connected with our other shoes, but distinct enough to stand alone. Throughout this collection we kept in line with the identity of the company as a progressive urban brand, but threw in twists and ideas of subversive. It’s our way of separating ourselves from the glut of sneakers out there.
How does the new online exclusive launch on December 7th differ from your past collections?
We have revisited our roots and are now focusing on a cleaner aesthetic that is at the heart of the brand. This should translate across boundaries, social and culturally. The collection to us is much more sophisticated.
What makes Cipher unique and different from other brands?
On a product level, I look for ironic, thought-provoking creations that will make a statement, but won’t totally alienate you from society, and that offers a twist to the memorable, and sometimes obscure parts of popular culture, politics, art and design, and music. I’m a huge fan of ‘homage’ or in literature the ‘allusion’, because it really helps to solidify the message in a way that gives people a context for what we do. So our products always have a story behind their creation, which reinforces what we’re trying to communicate as a brand and as a company.
Cipher as a brand has always been about evolution so you will always see us changing, ebbing and flowing with what is going on in the world, how we feel, and where we’re going. I think when you design from a personal level, that is when products are unique, as we will always design something that is intrinsically different from the next brand because we focus on the unique content of our lives as the seed for our creations as opposed to market driven capitalization.
What types of people wear your product?
Culturally-aware creative professionals that are well-traveled, in the know, with a taste of global popular culture. These are the "world-metropolitan culture" who crave contemporary urban fashion with an international perspective and a pop-culture twist.
Yours products have been spotted around the world – where else can we find Cipher?
You can find us in most major urban centers. We have a strong following in Japan and Korea through to France and of course the US. As our brand is growing we are reaching out to distribution all over the world. Our online e-commerce site allows us to do this now so we really see ourselves as a global brand.
What can Cipher fans expect over the next 5 years?
Whilst the Libertine, Seditionary and Subterranean have been our key core styles, we will be introducing a new style every 6 to 8 weeks starting from Spring 2010. The new styles ‘Sentient’ will be a more fashion forward style whilst the ‘Alpha’ will accommodate a wider audience for a more classical look with sophisticated taste. These will be coming out early next year with more styles launching throughout the year.
What advice can you provide to others who are interested in entering the fashion industry in Hong Kong? Is this a good place to start?
Hong Kong is a great place to start because it is a world city, very close culturally to the large mainland market and also a gateway to Europe and the US. It is melting pot of international diaspora. I think that for young people they should always pursue their passions and their dreams.
There is also a lot of vibrancy and creativity in HK and if anything right now is a great time to be here.
There has been a massive expansion in Hong Kong’s creative energy recently, how is Cipher a part of this?
Being part of the creative community in Hong Kong, we are committed to making a cultural contribution by way of events, whether it be music or art. Supporting young artists, here and abroad, by using our strong network to make themselves heard.
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